LATEST DYNO RESULTS

Our customer, Paul Patrick from Port Angeles,WA. just sent us the results of a recent DYNO read out on his 2005 VTX 1800S....the following is his email message to us:

 

Hi Cycleman, Just a note to mention I had my 2005 VTX18005 on a DYNO last Friday and find that I have 100.9 HP and 117 ft. lbs. of torque in 5th gear I had a dual map run while a guy with the same model of bike with Vance & Hines Bigshots had a single map run and he came away with 94 HP and 113 ft. lbs. of torque.....my local dealer told me that my bike in stock form produces a maximum of about 86 HP.

I have Unifiow Air Filter and your custom exhaust which I really enjoy! I will recommend others to you.....hope this information is helpful.

Thanks again,

Paul Patrick

Re-jetting & Fuel Managers

 

We will start by saying that, due to sufficient back pressure, created with our baffle design (patent pending), it has been our experience, and feedback from our customers would confirm that with most bikes, installing our baffled, modified pipe(s) on your otherwise stock bike normally does not require re-jetting (on carbureted bikes) or the adding of aftermarket fuel managers (on fuel injected bikes) in order to run properly.

We will explore some of the issues of “re-jetting” and adding “fuel managers” in regard to how they relate to installing our free flow, baffled, modified OEM pipe (s) on your bike. 

In attempt to assist you in understanding the “nuts and bolts” of these issues, we’ll first talk about determining a “baseline” – in other words – your present air/fuel (A/F) ratio (prior to changing pipes or prior to running your bike w/ your new pipe (s) installed. 

Whether your bike is carbureted or fuel injected the very first thing to do is carefully remove each spark plug, one by one and closely examine  (or read) your plugs:

*Plugs black / excessively sooty? – too rich (too much fuel) – solution: re-jet smaller or add capable fuel manager (not all fuel managers are capable of leaning out the A/F ratio – are designed only to add fuel).

*Plugs dusty, pale gray / almost white / have any signs of extreme heat (melting metal) anywhere on plug or electrode? – too lean (not enough fuel) – solution: re-jet larger or add fuel manager.

*Almost anything in between will usually work but the optimum A/F ratio will usually produce a very light, dusty brown appearance with no signs of sooting or extreme heat on your sparkplugs.

 

NOW THAT YOU’VE ESTABLISHED A BASELINE (A GOOD IDEA OF YOU’RE A/F RATIO) – FOLLOWING MODIFICATIONS AND A 100 MILE RIDE – YOU CAN NOW CORRECTLY ASSESS HOW INCREASED EXHAUST FLOW AND OR INCREASED AIR INTAKE FLOW HAVE AFFECTED YOU’RE A/F RATIO BY ONCE AGAIN “READING” YOUR SPARK PLUGS.

 

We will use a customer’s real life scenario to better illustrate how this can work (and sometimes can fool you as well):

 

We have a customer that rides an 04’ Honda VTX 1300 Retro.  He took his bike to the dyno man before and after he installed our modified OEM pipes and a “free flow” air filter….following the pipe modifications and adding the free flow air filter, he had performance gains of 6% h.p. and 9% torque and the dyno man told him, after reading his A/F ratio that he should not re-jet, that his A/F ratio was right where it should be. 

Now we can’t and won’t promise that every bike will attain this level of performance gain simply by improving air flow, but this is an excellent illustration of the need to establish a baseline, to know you’re A/F ratio prior to and following any “airflow modifications” or adding more fuel to the mix. And most importantly, not to just assume that you need to re-jet or add a fuel manager (which ever the case may be). And let it be said that, in our opinion, we believe that in most situations , if you are going to improve airflow thru the intake and exhaust, then adding more fuel (by means of re-jetting or adding fuel managers) would most likely bring the A/F ratio closer to the optimum, consequently, providing yet additional performance gains. 

We don’t promise that you’re going to see a huge improvement in performance simply by bolting on our modified OEM pipe(s) (although all reports thus far would indicate consistent, noticeable performance gains) oh ya, and did we mention - YOU’RE GOING TO LOVE THE SOUND!!

 

 

**NOTE** -

We will be posting additional dyno tests results here as they come in.

 

 Sturgis Thunder Pipe Works


 
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